Back to work
My machinist has informed me he needs the crank and rods out of my truck to complete the new motor. so I started obliging. I should have taken pics of the garage before i WEDGED the truck in but... anyway.
so i pulled valve cover-that white stuff is oil mixed with water. the orange stuff is rust on the rocker arms.
I drained 2 oil containers worth of water out of oil pan BEFORE oil started coming out. then it was 2 more containers of frappachino mud...
cant wait to see the holes on the inside of the block. hope the crank/rods are okay.
motor ready to lift
the plan for you techies is 802CP hyperutectic pistons, 4.2 rods, 4.2 crank, 0.43 headgasket, zero deck for better quench, mild port/polish on head, full blueprint/balance on assembly and no more scattered parts.
flywheel horsepower should go from OEM new=110 to over 275.
rear wheel HP should go from 50 to over 200... =) and over 300Tq at 1500rpm.
so i pulled valve cover-that white stuff is oil mixed with water. the orange stuff is rust on the rocker arms.
I drained 2 oil containers worth of water out of oil pan BEFORE oil started coming out. then it was 2 more containers of frappachino mud...
cant wait to see the holes on the inside of the block. hope the crank/rods are okay.
motor ready to lift
the plan for you techies is 802CP hyperutectic pistons, 4.2 rods, 4.2 crank, 0.43 headgasket, zero deck for better quench, mild port/polish on head, full blueprint/balance on assembly and no more scattered parts.
flywheel horsepower should go from OEM new=110 to over 275.
rear wheel HP should go from 50 to over 200... =) and over 300Tq at 1500rpm.
posted by ccpanel at 10:22 PM
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